Changes

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At the end of this stage you need to have off the two major components, the sub frame and the front pipe.

Looking under the car you should see this.

Now the fun begins. Remove the transmission side drive shaft hub nut and remove the outboard end from the hub. This will be easy as the lower ball joints are out of the way. Supporting the shaft on a hydraulic jack.

Let's return to our engine support beam. Using the winder, release the hook and begin to drop the engine don't worry as, due to the large hydraulic mount on the far side of the engine you have a superb pivot point. You really can wind the engine and transmission right down. The transmission may give the impression that it will simply slide off and hit the floor it will not believe me. Wind down the whole power unit until the drive shaft is Horizontal with the floor. You can see how low the transmission is by this view through the wheel arch

and comparing the next picture to the earlier one.

Now you can remove the drive shaft if you like. I Used a broad bladed steel chisel, the sort used for splitting bricks, and moving to the inboard end of the shaft placed the blade between the inner casing and the transmission and cracked the chisel on its shaft in a levering motion so that you pop the inner circlip. I removed my shaft after getting the whole lot out in this manner but its up to you.

Move around to the other wheel well and lay with your legs either side of the engine. Place your feet on the transmission casing where ever you can. The final drive point is good. Grab the car but not the axle stand, although it is temptingly in reach, and push with your feet. Slide the whole unit off the remaining drive shaft and the input shaft and it should just settle onto the jack.

Remove the jacks from the unit and pull the whole transmission from under the car

So now you've got your transmission out what then?

Firstly if you're not fitting a new pressure plate or friction plate do not go messing with the centralisation of the plates. The plates are centred so save yourself hassle and leave well alone.

Well, my box came out because I blew reverse gear andit was easier to fit a new box than remove and repair the existing one. The most obvious reason for removing the transmission is to fit a new clutch. I took this opportunity and did fit a new three-piece kit. You may just be fitting a new release bearing or a new input shaft seal. Whatever the problem you have to do all this anyway.

As I said earlier I did this job alone, if you can you will need a mate now more than ever. You will need two hydraulic jacks or if your lucky you will own a transmission jack. You need to move the transmission under the car in a relative position.

Then if your car was only lifted as high as an extended pair of Axle stands like my 900 was you will need to lift, push and lift the transmission onto 1 jack and then a second that will support the bell housing. Set the jacks on their lowest point place the bell housing on a jack head and get it balanced then move a second jack which is close at hand and, using your hands, lift the bell housing end onto the second jack. Get them balanced and take a breather and look at what you have to do.

When you are happy with the way it is lined up. Work the transmission onto the drive shaft, if this starts to go into position you are home. Visually check from all angles that you are happy with the position of the transmission and push it home as the input shaft reaches your friction plate it will pick up the teeth on the plate an then enter the flywheel. This should happen very smoothly due to the new grease on the shaft. Around the bolt holes on the bell housing there are dowels that align the housing with the engine block, these should all line up as you push the housing home.

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Place all the bolts into their corresponding holes and start to wind them in when all are in position tighten them in a diagonal sequence. This will place even fitting pressure on the housing to engine join.

'''Note: The ball joint bellow kits are actually available as a spare. Part No. 8993867'''

Move the sub frame into position under the car and bring in the ever-present 2 jacks. Pull the frame onto the jacks and balance it. What you are looking for is to align the lower ball joints if these go into place then the frame is loosely aligned.

As you begin the lift align the frame by pushing and pulling and fit the ball joints into the hub as you continue to pump the jacks each side separately. Do not drive the frame tight against the chassis, as you have to refit the spacer washers to the radius arm mount, which is the third and final bolt pair.

As the ball joint comes through the hub spin on the nut. Don't do what I did bolt it up and then realise that you have to use a breaker bar to force the lower arms down so you can wind on a nut! Once the ball joints are in place refit the rear bolts that hold the spacer washers.

Move to the next mount point, which are the 18mm bolts. Then it is the 18mm nuts that bolt onto the rear engine mount. There is a steel cable that is fixed to the rear mount

make sure that this is in the correct position if all is ok and you are happy with the position wind on the nuts but again not tight. Finally fit the front 16mm bolts and line up the frame with your score marks when ok tighten the front and work back the engine and transmission are now in place. Don't forget the ball joints! Take a look over our work if you are happy remove your engine support beam and your transmission is fitted.