The Saab Tech Wiki - User contributions [en]

NG 900/9-3 Replacement of Sensonic Clutch Actuator Without Master Cylinder

2013-02-07T17:48:22Z

Mbcullen:

=Notes=
Important: After work has been carried out on the clutch actuator unit, hydraulic system, clutch, etc., the clutch may exhibit a tendency to snatch. This should normally disappear after adaptation of the slip point.

=Removal=

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove the battery.
[[file:Sensonic_Actuator_01.gif|thumbnail|none|Charge Pipe, Power Steering Reservoir, Clutch Actuator]]

2. Remove the pressure pipe between the charge air cooler and throttle body and seal the hose to prevent dirt from entering it.

3. Lift up the power steering fluid reservoir and turn it to one side.

4. Unplug the three sensor connectors.

5. Press the connectors out of the holder.

6. Remove the three bolts and lift out the holder.

7. Unplug the CA unit's connector.

8. Unscrew the bolts securing the battery tray.
[[file:Sensonic_Actuator_02.gif|thumbnail|none|Battery Tray and Clutch Actuator]]

9. Remove the remaining bolts securing the CA unit.

10. Undo the maxifuse fuse box and move it aside.

11. Remove the cap on the CA unit and check that the CA unit's worm gear is in the engaged position (position E). If it is not, rotate it to the engaged position using a torque wrench set for 20 Nm.

12. Remove the two screws securing the master cylinder.
[[file:Sensonic_Actuator_03.gif|thumbnail|none|Master Cylinder and Clutch Actuator]]

13. Remove the clip securing the pressure pipe to the CA unit's holder.
[[file:Sensonic_Actuator_04.gif|thumbnail|none|Clutch Actuator]]

14. Lift out the CA unit.

=Replacement=

1. Position the clutch actuator unit and fit the clip securing the pressure pipe to the CA unit's holder.
[[file:Sensonic_Actuator_05.gif|thumbnail|none|Clutch Actuator]]

2. Replace the two screws securing the master cylinder to the CA unit.
[[file:Sensonic_Actuator_06.gif|thumbnail|none|Replace Screws Securing Master Cylinder to Clutch Actuator]]

3. Fit the maxifuse fuse box back in place.
[[file:Sensonic_Actuator_07.gif|thumbnail|none|Rebolt Clutch Actuator and Battery Tray]]

4. Tighten the screws securing the clutch actuator unit.

5. Fit the bolts securing the battery tray.

6. Plug in the CA unit's connector.

7. Fit the wiring harness in place, press the connectors into the holder and tighten the holder's three retaining screws.
[[file:Sensonic_Actuator_08.gif|thumbnail|none|Reassembly]]

8. Plug in the three sensor connectors.

9. Refit the power steering fluid reservoir.

10. Refit the pressure pipe.

11. Put the battery back in place.

12. Drive the car to test and [[NG 900/9-3 Adaption of Slip Point for Sensonic Clutch|adapt the slip joint]].

900/9-3 SID-3 Display

2012-04-14T08:24:05Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
[[file:900_9-3_SID_6.jpg|none|Fig. 1 - SID with missing pixels]]
The SAAB Information Display (SID) with "missing" pixels. The problem gets worse over time until the display becomes unreadable. The cause is broken and intermittent cable connections between the display and a circuit board. Some displays can be restored by applying pressure to the cable using a rubber band or by resoldering the connections, others have to be replaced. To get access to the ribbon cable, the display has to be removed from the dash and disassembled.

==Disassembly==
Two metal screws and one L-shaped bracket (shown on the right) at the cable connector must be removed. The front and back of the plastic case are held together with small plastic tabs that can be released by pressing down, then the case can be opened and the circuit boards can be slid out.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_2.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 2 - SID Disassembled]]

==Components==
===Enclosure===
A SID-3 after removal. The plastic case is held in the dash by four snaps, two on the top of the case, and two on the bottom (click picture for more detail). M4 screws were used to pull the SID out of the dash.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_4.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 3 - SID Enclosure]]

===LCD===
Front of the unit (upside down), showing the LCD mounted in a white plastic frame and the analog clock.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_3.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 4 - SID LCD]]

===Circuit Boards===
Back of the unit (still upside down), showing the two circuit boards and the cable connector. The round black object is a piezoelectric buzzer.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_1.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 5 - SID Circuit Boards]]

===Ribbon Cable===
The liquid crystal display (LCD) is attached by a flat ribbon cable soldered to the main circuit board.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_5.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 6 - SID Ribbon Cable]]

==Repair==
===Repair Services===
Most SIDs can be repaired by [[http://www.bba-reman.com BBA Reman]] Reports from users at saabcentral.com indicate a high quality service at a reasonable price.

Another option for SID repair outside the US is [[http://www.sidmaster.co.uk/ SID Master]].

SID repairs are also performed by [[http://www.kramermicrorepair.com Kramer Micro]] Reports from users at saabcentral.com about Kramer Micro are negative overall.

===DIY===
Missing SID pixels are the result of the LCD display's ribbon cable separating from the board. Several DIY options exist for repairing the ribbon cable. When attempting these repairs be very careful not to damage the ribbon cable as this may require the purchase of a new unit.

# Use foam to apply additional pressure to the ribbon cable and improve the connection.
# Use a ballpoint pen to press down each of the ribbon cable connectors and improve the connection.
# Pass a hot soldering iron over the ribbon cable connector to improve the connection. This tends to be the most effective, while also being the most likely to cause permanent damage.
# Use a heat gun set at 500-700 Celsius and remelt the solder while shielding the ribbon cable and plastic.

900/9-3 SID-3 Display

2012-04-14T08:22:45Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
[[file:900_9-3_SID_6.jpg|none|Fig. 1 - SID with missing pixels]]
The SAAB Information Display (SID) with "missing" pixels. The problem gets worse over time until the display becomes unreadable. The cause is broken and intermittent cable connections between the display and a circuit board. Some displays can be restored by applying pressure to the cable using a rubber band or by resoldering the connections, others have to be replaced. To get access to the ribbon cable, the display has to be removed from the dash and disassembled.

==Disassembly==
Two metal screws and one L-shaped bracket (shown on the right) at the cable connector must be removed. The front and back of the plastic case are held together with small plastic tabs that can be released by pressing down, then the case can be opened and the circuit boards can be slid out.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_2.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 2 - SID Disassembled]]

==Components==
===Enclosure===
A SID-3 after removal. The plastic case is held in the dash by four snaps, two on the top of the case, and two on the bottom (click picture for more detail). M4 screws were used to pull the SID out of the dash.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_4.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 3 - SID Enclosure]]

===LCD===
Front of the unit (upside down), showing the LCD mounted in a white plastic frame and the analog clock.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_3.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 4 - SID LCD]]

===Circuit Boards===
Back of the unit (still upside down), showing the two circuit boards and the cable connector. The round black object is a piezoelectric buzzer.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_1.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 5 - SID Circuit Boards]]

===Ribbon Cable===
The liquid crystal display (LCD) is attached by a flat ribbon cable soldered to the main circuit board.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_5.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 6 - SID Ribbon Cable]]

==Repair==
===Repair Services===
Most SIDs can be repaired by [[http://www.bba-reman.com BBA Reman]] Reports from users at saabcentral.com indicate a high quality service at a reasonable price.

SID repairs are also performed by [[http://www.kramermicrorepair.com Kramer Micro]] Reports from users at saabcentral.com about Kramer Micro are negative overall.

===DIY===
Missing SID pixels are the result of the LCD display's ribbon cable separating from the board. Several DIY options exist for repairing the ribbon cable. When attempting these repairs be very careful not to damage the ribbon cable as this may require the purchase of a new unit.

# Use foam to apply additional pressure to the ribbon cable and improve the connection.
# Use a ballpoint pen to press down each of the ribbon cable connectors and improve the connection.
# Pass a hot soldering iron over the ribbon cable connector to improve the connection. This tends to be the most effective, while also being the most likely to cause permanent damage.
# Use a heat gun set at 500-700 Celsius and remelt the solder while shielding the ribbon cable and plastic.

900/9-3 SID-3 Display

2012-04-14T08:22:21Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
[[file:900_9-3_SID_6.jpg|none|Fig. 1 - SID with missing pixels]]
The SAAB Information Display (SID) with "missing" pixels. The problem gets worse over time until the display becomes unreadable. The cause is broken and intermittent cable connections between the display and a circuit board. Some displays can be restored by applying pressure to the cable using a rubber band or by resoldering the connections, others have to be replaced. To get access to the ribbon cable, the display has to be removed from the dash and disassembled.

==Disassembly==
Two metal screws and one L-shaped bracket (shown on the right) at the cable connector must be removed. The front and back of the plastic case are held together with small plastic tabs that can be released by pressing down, then the case can be opened and the circuit boards can be slid out.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_2.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 2 - SID Disassembled]]

==Components==
===Enclosure===
A SID-3 after removal. The plastic case is held in the dash by four snaps, two on the top of the case, and two on the bottom (click picture for more detail). M4 screws were used to pull the SID out of the dash.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_4.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 3 - SID Enclosure]]

===LCD===
Front of the unit (upside down), showing the LCD mounted in a white plastic frame and the analog clock.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_3.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 4 - SID LCD]]

===Circuit Boards===
Back of the unit (still upside down), showing the two circuit boards and the cable connector. The round black object is a piezoelectric buzzer.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_1.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 5 - SID Circuit Boards]]

===Ribbon Cable===
The liquid crystal display (LCD) is attached by a flat ribbon cable soldered to the main circuit board.
[[file:900_9-3_SID_5.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 6 - SID Ribbon Cable]]

==Repair==
===Repair Services===
Most SIDs can be repaired by [[http://www.bba-reman.com BBA Reman]] Reports from users at saabcentral.com indicate a high quality service at a reasonable price.

SID repairs are also performed by [[Kramermicrorepair.com Kramer Micro]] Reports from users at saabcentral.com about Kramer Micro are negative overall.

===DIY===
Missing SID pixels are the result of the LCD display's ribbon cable separating from the board. Several DIY options exist for repairing the ribbon cable. When attempting these repairs be very careful not to damage the ribbon cable as this may require the purchase of a new unit.

# Use foam to apply additional pressure to the ribbon cable and improve the connection.
# Use a ballpoint pen to press down each of the ribbon cable connectors and improve the connection.
# Pass a hot soldering iron over the ribbon cable connector to improve the connection. This tends to be the most effective, while also being the most likely to cause permanent damage.
# Use a heat gun set at 500-700 Celsius and remelt the solder while shielding the ribbon cable and plastic.

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2012-04-14T08:17:48Z

Mbcullen:

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2011-09-27T21:16:30Z

Mbcullen: Added Saabit link

NG 900/9-3 Ebay Intercooler

2011-09-21T20:13:30Z

Mbcullen: Additional info in overview

=Overview=
The ETS inercooler is becoming the choice of enthusiast who are tuning their NG 900/9-3 to stage 3 and beyond. It offers the largest size and best price point that the competition.Overall, I spent around $200 to fit the intercooler, including parts and a little bit of welding done by a shop. Way better than $450 for a "drop in" one that still would've required me to buy the expensive hot side hose for a cross flow IC. Plus the ebay IC has 2.5" outlets which will help with my full 2.5" intake project.

==Diagrams==
<gallery>
Image:Intercooler_Diagram_01.jpg
Image:Intercooler_Diagram_02.jpg
Image:Intercooler_Diagram_03.jpg
Image:Intercooler_Diagram_04.jpg
</gallery>

=Parts=
# CXRacing 29"x9"x3" Intercooler (21"x9"x3" Core)- $80 from cxracing on ebay. (There is also a 23"x7"x2.5" available for $45 that would fit without the welding and everything, you'd just need to get the proper reducers and elbows)
# 2x 2.5" Tight Radius Cast Aluminum Elbow- $10 each from kinz-import on ebay
# 2x 2.5" to 2" Silicone reducers (not sure which ebay seller I bought these from, just went with the cheapest, they were $6 each I think.)

=Notes=
# My IC is not held in by anything other than the hoses. The bottom rests on the metal line for the oil cooler underneath the actual radiator, and the top is held in place by the bumper with some foam rubber strips between the IC and bumper and IC and radiator to prevent metal on metal rubbing. It's a very tight fit and once the bumper is on with the rubber strips compressed the IC is held in place rather solidly.
# To make the IC fit as described above, I had to remove the bosses welded on the top and bottom of the IC. Hacksaw/dremel works good for this.
# I also had to loosen the bracket on the AC expansion valve/dryer assembly and move that up about an inch, which involved some bending of the metal AC lines. Be careful here that you don't kink them. Moving this upward in turn interfered with the grille and I had to cut out a little of the extra plastic on the back of the grille so it fit correctly.

=Steps=
==Details==
The biggest hurdle was the 2.5" inlet/outlet to the intercooler and getting that size pipe through the stock hose locations. On the Viggen and 93 HOT the piping to the intercooler goes between the passenger side frame (where the bumper bolts to) and the radiator, then through the IC, and then back to the engine bay between the radiator and driver side frame. There's about 32" between the two frame members. This intercooler is almost that big from end to end, and as such routing the hoses in the stock locations requires some modification. I've seen people routing the IC outlet hose around the frame instead of between the frame and radiator to get around this, but I wanted to keep my piping as short as possible. My plan was to use the 2.5" bends to get through the openings to the side outlets of the IC.

Originally the plan was to use some 2.5" silicone connectors to attach the bends to the IC, but when checking the fit, the bends weren't going to fit through the openings, the intercooler was too wide. The solution turned out to be pretty simple. I measured the width of the radiator and the size of the space on each side where the hoses would go, and then cut the inlet/outlet pipes on the intercooler down until the bends would fit through whe they were welded on. For reference, my radiator was about 25.5" between the openings, with a 3" gap on the passenger side and a 3.5" gap on the driver side. That means the widest the bends could be was 32" minus the little bit of clearance for the clamps to attach the IC to the rest of the intake

I ended up sawing off the entire hose connector on each side of the IC to get the proper fit, and with no place to clamp the silicone connectors needed to get the bends welded on. No biggie, now it looks really good and I've got two less joints to leak. Since the welds were so simple it only ended up costing me an hour's worth of labor to get them done, and it only took an hour.

Once the elbows were welded, I attached my 2.5" > 2" reducers. At this point you basically have a "drop in" intercooler. Since my car is not a HOT, and I wasn't about to spend $150 on the hose from turbo to IC inlet, I used the same method as Dmitry to make the hot side intercooler hose. Basically chop up the old turbo to IC hose and us the bits to fabricate a pipe. I also had an extra elbow lying around like him, you may need to take a trip to the local junkyard.

==Summary==
# Take off the bumper to check the clearances on your car for routing the piping
# Cut the intercooler outlets short enough that the short radius bends will fit through the openings on either side of the radiator
# Get it welded
# Fabricate a cold side hose using the old cold side hose
# Connect everything up and pressure test before you put that bumper back on
# Enjoy

NG 900/9-3 Ignition Module (DIC)

2011-09-21T18:14:04Z

Mbcullen: Reverted edits by 94.198.47.6 (Talk) to last revision by Mbcullen

== Overview ==
The Ignition Discharge Module (IDM), also known as the Direct Ignition Cassette or DIC, is a common failure on both NG900 and early 9-3 models. When used with the proper NGK spark plugs the typical life is 30-100k miles. Common faults include leaks from oil filled coils, a cracked relay housing, burned out electrical components, and using incorrect spark plugs. Some 9-3 and 9-5 ignition modules have been recalled due to a design defect and replaced free of charge by Saab.

[[File:IDM_Side.jpg|thumb|none|Side view of DIC]]

The module cannot be repaired, only replaced. Installing a new one takes only about 15 minutes. Saab recommends that anytime the ignition module is being replaced with a new one, new spark plugs should also be installed, and the ecu reset by disconnecting the battery, and allowed to re-adapt to the new parts.

== Replacement ==
=== Tools ===
* Screwdriver
* T-30 bit or driver
* Dielectric grease
* Loctite, blue, only if needed

=== Part Numbers ===
* 1994-98 T5
** Original: #9178955
** Replacement: #55561132

=== Screws ===
The ignition module is held down by four T-30 screws. If the screws are found to be loose, they may have to be reassembled with lock washers or blue Loctite.

[[File:IDM_Screws.jpg|thumb|none|DIC Screw and connector locations]]

=== Connector ===
The connector has a locking latch (red) which slides to the side, then the connector can be unplugged fairly easily.

[[File:IDM_connector.jpg|thumb|none|DIC Connector]]

=== Removal ===
Once the screws are out and the module is disconnected, it can be pulled straight up and removed. If possible, it should be set aside carefully, with the rubber boots which fit over the spark plugs pointing down. The module can be inspected but not tested or repaired.

=== Visible Parts ===
Upper section with four coils, and a few other visible components. Lower section with rubber boots which go over the spark plugs, and spring contacts inside which have the same function as spark plug wires.

[[File:IDM_coils.jpg|thumb|none|Visible parts of the DIC]]

=== Label ===
The revision and date of manufacture are printed on the IDM label. The date code is a four digit number where the first two digits are the year and the second two digits are the week of the year. For example, "0237" was manufactured in the 37th week of 2002. There is also a revision code. For the T5 (red) DIC, the current revision is TK3.2C which is more reliable than the older TK3.2 without a letter. The date code allows the mileage to be estimated. Most ignition cassettes do not last over 100k miles.

[[File:IDM_label.jpg|thumb|none|DIC Label - Revision and Date Code]]

=== Spark Plug Boots ===
Before reassembly, the plugs and/or the end of the rubber boots should be coated with a thin layer of dielectric grease.

[[File:IDM_boot.jpg|thumb|none|DIC Boots]]

=== Installation ===
Seat the module over the plugs carefully, then press down to fit the boots on the plugs. Tighten the screws to about 8 lb-ft, and replace the connector. Check the screws a few days later to make sure they are still tight. If loose, reassemble with blue Loctite or lock washers.

[[File:IDM_inst.jpg|thumb|none|DIC installation]]

NG 900/9-3 Service Schedules

2011-09-21T07:43:46Z

Mbcullen: Rollback to fix numbering.

=Overview=
Saabs have become famous for their ability to reach very high mileages and still be running strong. The NG900 is no exception to this but one of the key factors is regular servicing.

The costs incurred by having this done at a Saab dealership can be quite shocking. However, if you are prepared and able to do the work yourself, or you know of a good independent that can carry out the work for you, then you can save quite a bit of money without compromising the life span of your Saab.

The following pages list the work that is required in the service specifications from Saab for each service interval. I strongly suggest that you use either genuine Saab parts, or quality OEM or after market parts, rather than the cheapest that you can find. This especially applies to lubricants which are very important for turbocharged cars.

=Schedules=
There are different servicing schedules depending on where you live in the world and these are broken down into three main areas.

EU - The European Union

FE/ME - The Far East and the Middle East

PA - The Pacific Area

US - United States

If you do not live in one of these areas, choose the one that has a similar climate/conditions to the place you live.

==US - United State==
The US service schedule can be downloaded in .pdf form from: http://www.saabwiki.info/Files/us_service_schedule.pdf

==EU - European Union==
In the EU the service intervals are specified as at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) and every 20,000 km (12,000 miles) thereafter. The links below will take you to a list of the items to be checked/replaced for each kilometer/mileage interval.

Please note that certain checks/replacements are based on time and mileage. So, if the time limit is reached before the distance interval has been traveled they have to be done. They are.

===Every 2 years (or 40,000 km/ 24,000 miles)===
Manual gearbox oil level - Check/adjust

Brake Fluid - Replace

===Every 3 years (or 80,000 km/48,000 miles)===
Coolant - Replace

10,000 km /6,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Front and rear suspension threaded joints: retighten
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level. Check/adjust
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Toe-in. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===30,000 km/18,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Manual gearbox: oil level. Check/adjust
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust
# Dampers and bushes: integrity and condition. Check/adjust
# Gaiters, inner and outer drive-shaft universal joints. Check/adjust
# Exhaust system and mountings: integrity and damage. Check/adjust
# Play in steering joints and ball joints, gaiter integrity. Check/adjust
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Fuel system, incl. tank: leaks and damage. Check/adjust
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level. Check/adjust
# Automatic transmission: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Ventilation air filter. Replace
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===50,000 km/30,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust
# Gaiters, inner and outer drive-shaft universal joints. Check/adjust
# Exhaust system and mountings: integrity and damage. Check/adjust
# Play in steering joints and ball joints, gaiter integrity. Check/adjust
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Fuel system, incl. tank: leaks and damage. Check/adjust
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level (change at max. 2-years intervals). Replace
# Automatic transmission: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Spark plugs, unleaded petrol. Replace
# Air cleaner filter element. Replace
# Drive belt, condition, tension, incl. automatic tensioner. Check/adjust, replace as necessary
# Camshaft drive, timing belt (B258 - M1994-1996). Replace
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Ventilation air filter. Replace
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Toe-in. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===70,000 km/42,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Manual gearbox: oil level. Check/adjust
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust
# Dampers and bushes: integrity and condition. Check/adjust
# Gaiters, inner and outer drive-shaft universal joints. Check/adjust
# Exhaust system and mountings: integrity and damage. Check/adjust
# Play in steering joints and ball joints, gaiter integrity. Check/adjust
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Fuel system, incl. tank: leaks and damage. Check/adjust
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level. Check/adjust
# Automatic transmission: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Ventilation air filter. Replace
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===90,000 km/54,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust
# Gaiters, inner and outer drive-shaft universal joints. Check/adjust
# Exhaust system and mountings: integrity and damage. Check/adjust
# Play in steering joints and ball joints, gaiter integrity. Check/adjust
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Fuel system, incl. tank: leaks and damage. Check/adjust
# Coolant (max. 3-year intervals). Replace
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level. Check/adjust
# Automatic transmission: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Drive belt, condition, tension, incl. automatic tensioner. Check/adjust, replace as necessary
# Camshaft drive, timing belt (B258 - M1997). Replace
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Ventilation air filter. Replace
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Toe-in. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===110,000 km/66,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Automatic transmission: fluid. Replace
# Manual gearbox: oil level. Check/adjust
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust
# Dampers and bushes: integrity and condition. Check/adjust
# Gaiters, inner and outer drive-shaft universal joints. Check/adjust
# Exhaust system and mountings: integrity and damage. Check/adjust
# Play in steering joints and ball joints, gaiter integrity. Check/adjust
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Fuel system, incl. tank: leaks and damage. Check/adjust
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level (change at max. 2-years intervals). Replace
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Spark plugs, unleaded petrol. Replace
# Air cleaner filter element. Replace
# Drive belt, condition, tension, incl. automatic tensioner. Check/adjust, replace as necessary
# Camshaft drive, timing belt (B258 - M1994-1996). Replace
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Ventilation air filter. Replace
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===130,000 km/78,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust
# Dampers and bushes: integrity and condition. Check/adjust
# Gaiters, inner and outer drive-shaft universal joints. Check/adjust
# Exhaust system and mountings: integrity and damage. Check/adjust
# Play in steering joints and ball joints, gaiter integrity. Check/adjust
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Fuel system, incl. tank: leaks and damage. Check/adjust
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level. Check/adjust
# Automatic transmission: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Drive belt, condition, tension, incl. automatic tensioner. Check/adjust, replace as necessary
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Ventilation air filter. Replace
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Toe-in. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===150,000 km/90,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Manual gearbox: oil level. Check/adjust
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust
# Dampers and bushes: integrity and condition. Check/adjust
# Gaiters, inner and outer drive-shaft universal joints. Check/adjust
# Exhaust system and mountings: integrity and damage. Check/adjust
# Play in steering joints and ball joints, gaiter integrity. Check/adjust
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Fuel system, incl. tank: leaks and damage. Check/adjust
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level (change at max. 2-years intervals). Replace
# Automatic transmission: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Drive belt, condition, tension, incl. automatic tensioner. Check/adjust, replace as necessary
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Ventilation air filter. Replace
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===170,000 km/102,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Fuel filter. Replace
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust
# Dampers and bushes: integrity and condition. Check/adjust
# Gaiters, inner and outer drive-shaft universal joints. Check/adjust
# Exhaust system and mountings: integrity and damage. Check/adjust
# Play in steering joints and ball joints, gaiter integrity. Check/adjust
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Fuel system, incl. tank: leaks and damage. Check/adjust
# Coolant (max. 3-year intervals). Replace
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level. Check/adjust
# Automatic transmission: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Spark plugs, unleaded petrol. Replace
# Air cleaner filter element. Replace
# Drive belt, condition, tension, incl. automatic tensioner. Check/adjust, replace as necessary
# Camshaft drive, timing belt (B258 - M1994-1996). Replace
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Ventilation air filter. Replace
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Toe-in. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===190,000 km/114,000 miles===
# Lighting (headlamps, light clusters, other lights), alignment. Check/adjust
# Zeroize the service indicator.
# Oil leakage, top/bottom. Check/adjust
# Engine: oil and oil filter. Replace
# Manual gearbox: oil level. Check/adjust
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Brake system: pads and handbrake. Check/adjust
# Dampers and bushes: integrity and condition. Check/adjust
# Gaiters, inner and outer drive-shaft universal joints. Check/adjust
# Exhaust system and mountings: integrity and damage. Check/adjust
# Play in steering joints and ball joints, gaiter integrity. Check/adjust
# Tyres: inflation pressures, condition, tread depth and wear pattern (incl. spare wheel). Check/adjust
# Fuel system, incl. tank: leaks and damage. Check/adjust
# Cooling system: condition of hoses, check coolant level and freezing point. Check/adjust
# Brake fluid: level (change at max. 2-years intervals). Replace
# Automatic transmission: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Power steering: fluid level. Check/adjust
# Drive belt, condition, tension, incl. automatic tensioner. Check/adjust, replace as necessary
# Camshaft drive, timing belt (B258 MY1997). Replace
# Battery: check electrolyte level, inspect negative ground cable and positive cable to starter motor, clean and grease terminals and mounting bracket
# Washer system: check and top up as necessary
# Wipers. Check/adjust
# Ventilation air filter. Replace
# Doors, bonnet, tailgate, etc. and door keeps. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Tailgate hinges. Check/adjust/clean/lubricate
# Seat belts: operation and strap damage. Check/adjust
# Airbag system: visual inspection of airbag module/modules
# Road test

===Mileage over 190,000 km/114,000 miles===
Perform the 30,000 km/18,000 miles service, change the plugs, air filter and take into account the time and mileage specific procedures listed above.

The automatic transmission fluid should also be changed every 110,000 km/66,000 miles and the fuel filter at 170,000 km/102,000 mile intervals.

NG 900/9-3 Spark Plugs

2011-09-21T07:42:20Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
OEM plugs are NGK, however, any resistor plug with the appropriate temperature range will function properly in these cars. Non-resistor plugs can damage the DIC. Plugs of the wrong temperature range can lead to detonation.

==Plug Gap==
.9-1mm
.035-.040

==Compatible Spark Plugs==

===Known Compatible Spark Plugs===
* NGK BCPR7ES-11 w/stock number 1095
* NGK PFR6H-10

===Likely Compatible===
There is some debate over whether non-NGK plugs should be used. Some maintain that the trionic system and DIC are designed around NGK plugs. Other owners have used a variety of other resistor plugs of the appropriate temperature range with good results. Some of the other plugs used by these owners include:
* Champion RC7YC w/stock number 340
* Autolite 3922
* Bosch Super 7556
* Bosch Super Plus 7956
* Bosch Platinum Plus ?
* Bosch Platinum+2 ?

NG 900/9-3 Spark Plugs

2011-09-21T07:39:58Z

Mbcullen:

NG 900/9-3 Transmission

2011-09-21T07:34:09Z

Mbcullen: spam

=Overview=
The gearbox is designed for front wheel drive and forms a unit with the engine. The drive unit is transversely mounted in the car, which gives good cooling and the shortest possible route for the transfer of power to the drive wheels.
[[file:Tranny_01.gif|thumbnail|none|Transmission Position]]

=Manual Transmission=
The manual gearbox is a five-speed gearbox. All gears (including reverse) are synchronized. It has relatively small rotating masses, and so has small moments of inertia to be braked at each gear change. This makes gear-changing easy and smooth and interior wear on baulk rings and sleeves almost non-existent. The baulk rings are placed on the input and output shafts.
[[file:Tranny_02.gif|thumbnail|none|Manual Transmission Cutaway]]

Copyright Information

2011-09-20T08:28:44Z

Mbcullen:

=In Summary=
Copyright for all content at saabwiki.info lies with the content creator. If content originally came from another site, you must obtain permission from the site's owner prior to redistributing content in any way. Copyright for content that is unique to saabwiki.info belongs to the creator(s) of that content, and permission must be obtained from those individuals prior to redistributing that content in any way.

Getting-started

2011-09-20T08:16:12Z

Mbcullen: Spam

== Formatting ==
The SAAB wiki is built using media wiki, and a simple text markup language is used to format articles.

Information about the various types of formatting is available at the following links.
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Formatting Text Formatting]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Links Links]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Images Images]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Tables Tables]

== Style ==
In order to make the wiki more usable for everyone, please use a clear and simple writing style. Don't use big words when small ones will work just as well. When writing tutorials, assume that the person reading it has no prior knowledge of the process, and include all of the information that will be necessary in order to complete the task.

== Editing an Existing Page ==

# Click the edit button at the top of the page.
# Make your changes in the editing window.
# If you are making a minor change such as correcting punctuation or spelling, click the "This is a minor edit" radio box at the bottom of the page.
# To view your changes as they will be rendered, click the Show Preview button at the bottom of the page.
# To Save your changes, click the Save Page button at the bottom of the page.

== Creating a New Page ==

# Create a link to the new page.
## Select the page that your new page will be linked from. For example, if you are creating a page about the sound system for the OG9-5, a good page for the first link would be the main OG9-5 page.
## Click the edit button.
## Select the appropriate category to add your link to. If it doesn't fit any of the existing categories, it may be necessary to reorganize the categories, or create a new one.
## Create a link to the new page.
### For information on how to create a link, consult this site: [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Links Links]
## Save your changes.
## You will automatically be taken to the page that you were just editing.
# Edit the new page.
## Click the link to your new page.
## Click the create button at the top of the page.
## Add information to your new page.
## Click the Save Page button at the bottom of the page.

==Images==
When uploading images, ensure that they are in the public domain or that the wiki has permission to use them. Image names should identify the pictures and whatever group they are part of. Upload the largest version of an image that is available. The wiki will automatically create smaller thumbnails for inline use in articles.

Poor image naming:
DSC_4538_1209_01.jpg
DSC_4538_1209_18.jpg

Good image naming:
Green_Roller_01.jpg
Green_Roller_02.jpg

NG 900/9-3 Handling Modifications

2011-05-19T07:06:55Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==

==Wheels and Tires==
===Wheels===

===Tires===

==Subframe Braces==
Subframe braces stiffen the chassis, improve tracking on rough roads, and help allow the suspension to perform better. This is an essential modification for the convertible, and a substantial improvement for other models. Convertibles should use the 6 point brace. Other models can get by with the 2 point brace but will see further improvements with the 6 point.

The braces can be purchased from Genuine Saab in the US. DIY versions are possible, with the 2 point being particularly easy to make.

Installation is straight forward with the braces bolting on to the subframe of the car.

==Steering Rack Clamp and Brace==
The steering rack is mounted to the firewall using soft rubber bushings inside of clamps. This was a marginal solution on the NG 900, but with the 9-3, a thinner steering rack with thicker rubber bushings was used, and is barely adequate. The steering rack clamp and brace provide a much more solid mounting solution for the steering rack, improving the steering feel and minimizing torque steer.

===DIY===

===Purchased===
The steering rack clamp and brace was originally developed by Abbott Racing in the UK. Alternatives can be purchased from Genuine Saab in the US and Elk Parts in the UK.

==Rear Anti-Roll Bar (ARB)==
Replacing the rear ARB is one of the easiest and most effective methods of improving the handling of the 900 and 9-3. Mounting a thicker rear ARB reduces body roll in turns, improves stability and traction during acceleration, and reduces understeer. Rollbars of varying thicknesses are available from Genuine Saab. A more inexpensive option is to double up stock
rollbars. When removing the stock ARB the stock bolts will more than likely only come off when they snap due to rust and age.

By using two stock ARBs and four grade 8 3/8" bolts and some 1/2" clamps you can cheaply improve you handling.

[[File:Doublestacked.JPG|400px]]

Additional information about selecting the correct rear ARB can be found on the [[http://trolltuner.com/?p=56 Trolltuner site]]

==Front Anti-Roll Bar (ARB)==

OG900

2011-05-02T06:00:23Z

Mbcullen: Protected "OG900": Excessive spamming ([edit=autoconfirmed] (expires 06:00, 16 May 2011 (UTC)) [move=autoconfirmed] (expires 06:00, 16 May 2011 (UTC)))

=General=
* [[History and development of the og900]]
* [[og900 Buyer's Guide|Buyer's Guide]]
=Tech Information=
* [[og900 Body styles|Body styles]]
* [[og900 Models|Models]]
* [[og900 Engines|Engine]]
* [[og900 Interiors|Interior]]
* [[og900 Suspension and steering|Suspension and steering]]
* [[og900 Wheel and Tire|Wheel and tire sizes]]

= Repairs =

==Interior==

==Exterior==

==Electrical System==

==Brakes==
* [[og900 Front Pads and Rotors|Front Pads and Rotors]]
* [[og900 Rear Pads and Rotors|Rear Pads and Rotors]]
* [[og900 Hand Brake|Hand Brake]]

==Engine==
* [[og900 Engine removal|Engine removal]]

==Transmission==
* [[og900 Transmission replacement|Transmission Replacement]]
* [[og900 Clutch replacement|Clutch Replacement]]

==Driveline==

==Suspension==
* [[og900 Replacing front suspension|Replacing front suspension]]
* [[og900 Replacing rear suspension|Replacing rear suspension]]

= Modifications =

==Handling==
* [[og900 Suspension upgrades|Suspension upgrades]]

==Power==
* [[og900 Engine upgrade|Upgrade to 16v Turbo engine]]

==Appearance==
* [[og900 Airflow kit|Airflow kit]]
* [[og900 Clear indicators|Clear indicators]]
* [[og900 Aero/SPG kit|Aero/SPG kit]]
* [[99-90 Turbo front lip|Turbo front lip]]
* [[og900 Rear spoilers|Rear spoiler]]

OG900

2011-05-02T05:59:43Z

Mbcullen: Undo revision 11624 by 89.169.143.4 (Talk)

OG900

2011-04-25T19:02:21Z

Mbcullen: Reverted edits by 91.200.170.16 (Talk) to last revision by Mbcullen

OG900

2011-04-19T07:33:24Z

Mbcullen:

Main Page

2011-04-04T16:03:13Z

Mbcullen:

<big>'''Welcome to the Saab DIY and tech wiki!'''</big>

DIY and tech information for all Saab models.

The Saab Tech Wiki gathers all the tech information for Saabs that is scattered across the internet on various personal websites and forums, and compile it in a single location in order to make it more easily accessible for everyone.

[[File:Saab-logo.png|center]]

<big>'''Help!'''</big>

I have implemented some anti-spam measures, but there is still some coming in occasionally. If you see spam on the wiki, please send an e-mail to mcullen@gmail.com and I'll take care of it.

Click [[getting-started|here]] for more information on how to get started with creating and editing pages.

Questions about the wiki can be sent to mcullen@gmail.com

<big>'''News'''</big>

Welcome to everyone from Saabs United. Thanks for checking out the wiki.

Here's what I'm working on:
* Finishing up the copyright statement
* Moving information from ericsaabsite.com into the NG 900/9-3 mods section.

And what's coming up next:
* I'm going to start trying to build out another section. The 9-3SS section gets more traffic than the others, so that will probably be the first choice.
* I would love to get a few people who are each willing to be responsible for building out one of the model sections. If you're interested, or would just like to help in general, drop me an e-mail at mcullen@gmail.com.

OG900

2010-08-10T17:29:25Z

Mbcullen:

=General=
* [[History and development of the og900]]
* [[og900 Buyer's Guide|Buyer's Guide]]
=Tech Information=
* [[og900 Body styles|Body styles]]
* [[og900 Models|Models]]
* [[og900 Engines|Engine]]
* [[og900 Interiors|Interior]]
* [[og900 Suspension and steering|Suspension and steering]]
* [[og900 Wheel and Tire|Wheel and tire sizes]]

= Repairs =

==Interior==

==Exterior==

==Electrical System==

==Brakes==
* [[og900 Front Pads and Rotors|Front Pads and Rotors]]
* [[og900 Rear Pads and Rotors|Rear Pads and Rotors]]
* [[og900 Hand Brake|Hand Brake]]

==Engine==
* [[og900 Engine removal|Engine removal]]

==Transmission==
* [[og900 Transmission replacement|Transmission Replacement]]
* [[og900 Clutch replacement|Clutch Replacement]]

==Driveline==

==Suspension==
* [[og900 Replacing front suspension|Replacing front suspension]]
* [[og900 Replacing rear suspension|Replacing rear suspension]]

= Modifications =

==Handling==
* [[og900 Suspension upgrades|Suspension upgrades]]

==Power==
* [[og900 Engine upgrade|Upgrade to 16v Turbo engine]]

==Appearance==
* [[og900 Airflow kit|Airflow kit]]
* [[og900 Aero/SPG kit|Aero/SPG kit]]
* [[99-90 Turbo front lip|Turbo front lip]]
* [[og900 Rear spoilers|Rear spoiler]]

9000

2010-08-10T17:28:35Z

Mbcullen: SPAM

NG 900/9-3 Audio Modifications

2010-08-10T16:37:54Z

Mbcullen: Blanked the page

NG 900/9-3 Replacement of Sensonic Clutch Actuator Without Master Cylinder

2010-08-10T16:33:26Z

Mbcullen:

NG 900/9-3

2010-08-10T16:32:23Z

Mbcullen:

=General=
* [[A Brief History of the Development of the NG 900|NG 900 History]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Body Design|Body Design]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Buyer's Guide|Buyer's Guide]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Transmission|Transmission]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Suspension and Steering|Suspension and Steering]]
=Tech Information=
* [[NG 900/9-3 Audio|Audio]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Wheel and Tire|Wheel and Tire Sizes]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 SID|SID]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Oil|Oil]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Spark Plugs|Spark Plugs]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Service Schedules|Service Schedules]]
* Engine
** [[NG 900/9-3 Engines|Engines]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Balance Shafts|Balance Shafts]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Motronic CEL Flash Codes|Motronic CEL Flash Codes]]
** [[9-3 Trionic Diagnostic Trouble Codes|Trionic Diagnostic Codes]]
* Relays
** [[NG 900/9-3 Instrument Panel Relay Tray|Instrument Panel Relay Tray]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Engine Bay Relay Panel|Engine Bay Relay Panel]]

= Repairs =
== Small Repairs ==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Ignition Module (DIC)|Ignition Module (DIC)]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Vacuum Lines|Vacuum Lines]]
* [[Wheels Stuck to Hubs|Wheels Stuck to Hubs]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Throttle Body|Throttle Body]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Idler Pulleys|Idler Pulleys]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Valve Cover Gasket|Valve Cover Gasket]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Valve Cover Plug|Valve Cover Plug]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Boost Pressure Control Valve|Boost Pressure Control Valve]]
* [[900/9-3 Oil Pressure Sensor|Oil Pressure Sensor]]
* [[900/9-3 SID-3 Display|SID-3 Display]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 AC Recharge|A/C Recharging]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 AC Short Belt w/o Center Idler Pulley]]

==Interior==
* [[NG 900/9-3 DIY Rear Seat Cable Fix|DIY Rear Seat Cable Fix]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Removal of Front Door Card|Removal of Front Door Card]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Clearing Gutter Drain Hose|Clearing Gutter Drain Hose]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Interior Fan Resistor|Interior Fan Resistor]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Cabin Temperature Sensor|Cabin Temperature Sensor]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Dashboard Insert Removal|Dashboard Insert Removal]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Heater/Blower Fan Diagnostic Procedure|Heater/Blower Fan Diagnostic Procedure]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Air Vent Assembly|Air Vent Assembly]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Gear Knob Replacement|Gear Knob Replacement]]

===Audio===
* [[NG 900/9-3 Head Unit Removal|Head Unit Removal]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Clarion CD634 CD Changer Lens Cleaning|CD Changer Lens Cleaning]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Adaptation of US Radio for European Reception|Adaptation of US Radio for European Reception]]

==Exterior==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Front Window Replacement|Front Door Glass Replacement]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Foglight Fix|Foglight Fix]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Green Roller|Front Window Green Roller]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Removal and Refitting of Front Bumper|Removal and Refitting Front Bumper]]

==Electrical System==
* Alternator
** [[NG 900/9-3 Alternator|Voltage Regulator and Brushes]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Alternator Replacement|Alternator Replacement]]
* Radiator Fan
** [[NG 900/9-3 Fan Resistor Replacement|Fan Resistor Replacement]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Radiator Fan Test|Radiator Fan Test]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Crankshaft Position Sensor|Crankshaft Position Sensor]]
==Brakes==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Front Pads and Rotors|Front Pads and Rotors]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Rear Brake Pads|Rear Brake Pads]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Rear Rotors|Rear Rotors]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Hand Brake|Hand Brake]]

==Power Steering==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Power Steering Components|Components]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Power Steering Lines|P/S Lines]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Power Steering Pump Replacement|Pump Replacement]]

==Cooling System==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Water Pump Replacement|Water Pump Replacement]]

==Engine==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Engine Assembly|Engine Assembly]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Cylinder Head Removal|Cylinder Head Removal]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Valve Cover and Timing Gear|Valve Cover and Timing Gear]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Timing Chain Tensioner|Timing Chain Tensioner]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Oil Pressure Reducing Valve|Oil Pressure Reducing Valve]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Oil Pan, Oil Screen, Bearings|Oil Pan, Oil Screen, Bearings]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Drop the oil pan, inspect the screen]]

==Transmission==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Bleeding Sensonic Clutch System|Bleed Sensonic]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Adaption of Slip Point for Sensonic Clutch|Sensonic Slip Point Adaption]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Changing Transmission|Manual Transmission Replacement]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Replacement of Sensonic Clutch Actuator Without Master Cylinder|Sensonic Clutch Actuator Without Master Cylinder]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Replacement of Sensonic Clutch Actuator With Master Cylinder|Sensonic Clutch Actuator With Master Cylinder]]

==Driveline==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Installing New CV Boot|CV Boot]]

==Suspension==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Front Strut Removal|Front Strut Removal]]

= Modifications =

* [[NG 900/9-3 3" Intake|3" Intake]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Turbo Silencer Removal|Turbo Silencer Removal]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 TB Transition Cast Porting|TB Transition Cast Porting ]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 K&N Filter|K&N Filter]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 TB Manual Boost Control|Manual Boost Control ]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Cone Filter Intake|Cone Filter Intake]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Sport Exhaust|Sport Exhaust]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Forge Bypass Valve|Forge Bypass Valve]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Viggen Intercooler|Viggen Intercooler]]

==Handling==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Rear ARB|Rear ARB]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Handling Modifications|Handling]]

==Power==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Ebay Intercooler|Ebay Intercooler]]

==Audio==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Audio Modifications|Audio]]

==Appearance==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Appearance Modifications|Appearance]]

NG 900/9-3

2010-08-10T16:31:47Z

Mbcullen:

=General=
* [[A Brief History of the Development of the NG 900|NG 900 History]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Body Design|Body Design]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Buyer's Guide|Buyer's Guide]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Transmission|Transmission]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Suspension and Steering|Suspension and Steering]]
=Tech Information=
* [[NG 900/9-3 Audio|Audio]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Wheel and Tire|Wheel and Tire Sizes]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 SID|SID]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Oil|Oil]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Spark Plugs|Spark Plugs]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Service Schedules|Service Schedules]]
* Engine
** [[NG 900/9-3 Engines|Engines]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Balance Shafts|Balance Shafts]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Motronic CEL Flash Codes|Motronic CEL Flash Codes]]
** [[9-3 Trionic Diagnostic Trouble Codes|Trionic Diagnostic Codes]]
* Relays
** [[NG 900/9-3 Instrument Panel Relay Tray|Instrument Panel Relay Tray]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Engine Bay Relay Panel|Engine Bay Relay Panel]]

= Repairs =
== Small Repairs ==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Ignition Module (DIC)|Ignition Module (DIC)]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Vacuum Lines|Vacuum Lines]]
* [[Wheels Stuck to Hubs|Wheels Stuck to Hubs]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Throttle Body|Throttle Body]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Idler Pulleys|Idler Pulleys]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Valve Cover Gasket|Valve Cover Gasket]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Valve Cover Plug|Valve Cover Plug]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Boost Pressure Control Valve|Boost Pressure Control Valve]]
* [[900/9-3 Oil Pressure Sensor|Oil Pressure Sensor]]
* [[900/9-3 SID-3 Display|SID-3 Display]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 AC Recharge|A/C Recharging]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 AC Short Belt w/o Center Idler Pulley]]

==Interior==
* [[NG 900/9-3 DIY Rear Seat Cable Fix|DIY Rear Seat Cable Fix]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Removal of Front Door Card|Removal of Front Door Card]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Clearing Gutter Drain Hose|Clearing Gutter Drain Hose]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Interior Fan Resistor|Interior Fan Resistor]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Cabin Temperature Sensor|Cabin Temperature Sensor]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Dashboard Insert Removal|Dashboard Insert Removal]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Heater/Blower Fan Diagnostic Procedure|Heater/Blower Fan Diagnostic Procedure]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Air Vent Assembly|Air Vent Assembly]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Gear Knob Replacement|Gear Knob Replacement]]

===Audio===
* [[NG 900/9-3 Head Unit Removal|Head Unit Removal]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Clarion CD634 CD Changer Lens Cleaning|CD Changer Lens Cleaning]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Adaptation of US Radio for European Reception|Adaptation of US Radio for European Reception]]

==Exterior==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Front Window Replacement|Front Door Glass Replacement]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Foglight Fix|Foglight Fix]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Green Roller|Front Window Green Roller]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Removal and Refitting of Front Bumper|Removal and Refitting Front Bumper]]

==Electrical System==
* Alternator
** [[NG 900/9-3 Alternator|Voltage Regulator and Brushes]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Alternator Replacement|Alternator Replacement]]
* Radiator Fan
** [[NG 900/9-3 Fan Resistor Replacement|Fan Resistor Replacement]]
** [[NG 900/9-3 Radiator Fan Test|Radiator Fan Test]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Crankshaft Position Sensor|Crankshaft Position Sensor]]
==Brakes==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Front Pads and Rotors|Front Pads and Rotors]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Rear Brake Pads|Rear Brake Pads]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Rear Rotors|Rear Rotors]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Hand Brake|Hand Brake]]

==Power Steering==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Power Steering Components|Components]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Power Steering Lines|P/S Lines]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Power Steering Pump Replacement|Pump Replacement]]

==Cooling System==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Water Pump Replacement|Water Pump Replacement]]

==Engine==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Engine Assembly|Engine Assembly]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Cylinder Head Removal|Cylinder Head Removal]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Valve Cover and Timing Gear|Valve Cover and Timing Gear]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Timing Chain Tensioner|Timing Chain Tensioner]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Oil Pressure Reducing Valve|Oil Pressure Reducing Valve]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Oil Pan, Oil Screen, Bearings|Oil Pan, Oil Screen, Bearings]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Drop the oil pan, inspect the screen]]

==Transmission==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Bleeding Sensonic Clutch System|Bleed Sensonic]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Adaption of Slip Point for Sensonic Clutch|Sensonic Slip Point Adaption]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Changing Transmission|Transmission Replacement]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Replacement of Sensonic Clutch Actuator Without Master Cylinder|Sensonic Clutch Actuator Without Master Cylinder]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Replacement of Sensonic Clutch Actuator With Master Cylinder|Sensonic Clutch Actuator With Master Cylinder]]

==Driveline==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Installing New CV Boot|CV Boot]]

==Suspension==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Front Strut Removal|Front Strut Removal]]

= Modifications =

* [[NG 900/9-3 3" Intake|3" Intake]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Turbo Silencer Removal|Turbo Silencer Removal]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 TB Transition Cast Porting|TB Transition Cast Porting ]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 K&N Filter|K&N Filter]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 TB Manual Boost Control|Manual Boost Control ]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Cone Filter Intake|Cone Filter Intake]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Sport Exhaust|Sport Exhaust]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Forge Bypass Valve|Forge Bypass Valve]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Viggen Intercooler|Viggen Intercooler]]

==Handling==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Rear ARB|Rear ARB]]
* [[NG 900/9-3 Handling Modifications|Handling]]

==Power==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Ebay Intercooler|Ebay Intercooler]]

==Audio==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Audio Modifications|Audio]]

==Appearance==
* [[NG 900/9-3 Appearance Modifications|Appearance]]

NG 900/9-3 Drop the oil pan, inspect the screen

2010-08-10T16:30:28Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
The oilpan was removed after some minor signs of sludge were found during a valve cover removal and inspection.
[[file:ValveCover009.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 1 - Valve cover with burned oil and varnish]]
[[file:ValveCover004.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 2 - Camshafts with varnish]]
[[file:ValveCover005.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 3 - Timing gear with varnish]]

==List of tools==
*Full metric socket set
*O2 Sensor socket
*Torx set
*Ratchet
*Long (at least 24") breaker bar
*Adjustable wrench
*Screwdrivers
*PB Blaster (or your choice of penetrating oil)
*Anaerobic sealant
*Degreaser (optional)
*Blue Loctite
*Hydraulic jack
*Ramps (jackstands can be used but you're going to be putting some serious torque on the subframe)
*Blocks

==Preparation==
#Put the car on ramps, set the parking brake, put blocks behind the tires. I really can't emphasize enough how dangerous this may be to do on jackstands. Trust me, when it's time to try and get the middle subframe bolts off, you'll be glad it's on ramps.
#Remove all of the airshields.
#PB Blast everything: nuts holding downpipe onto turbo, front O2 sensor, all six subframe bolts, the small crack where the subframe meets the frame over the middle subframe bolt (so that it would flow down into the thread) and, finally, all of the bolts holding the oil pan on.[[file:O2_sensor.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 4 - O2 Sensor]]
#Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
==Drop the exhaust==
#Remove the O2 sensor and run it back up through the block to rest on top of the DIC.
#Remove the flange holding the downpipe onto the turbo. One nut on the bottom, two on top. Not much room to work on top, but no real problem.
#Consider removing the pipe that holds (held) your turbo silencer but it really isn't in the way that much. It may make getting the downpipe out easier though.
#Disconnect the cat O2 sensor and guide the wire down through the engine. There is a small ziptie holding it in place.
#Leave the downpipe on the bolts, release the hangers, starting at the front. You have a decision to make here. You can keep the exhaust hanging on the last set of hangers and push it to the side or you can remove the whole thing. If you leave them connected, you may damage the flex pipe.[[file:exhaust.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 5 - Exhaust on last hangers]]
==Drop the subframe==
#Starting at the front, remove the first subframe bolt on each side of the subframe. These two are easy to remove, not even requiring a breaker bar.
#The middle subframe bolts may prove to be very tough to remove. Be prepared to break a socket trying to remove the passenger side bolt. Though this may not be the case for everyone, it is difficult, if not impossible, to get these off without a breaker bar. At this point, you really will be glad the car is on ramps.
#Again, you have a decision to make; completely remove the subframe or leave the subframe installed with the back two bolts loosened.
==Remove the oil pan==
#Remove the bolts holding the oilpan on. It is a bit tight on the passenger side, requiring a little maneuvering around the subframe. There is a small cover over the flywheel that you must remove to gain access to two of the oilpan bolts. [[file:flywheel_cover.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 6 - Flywheel cover]]
#Place a hydraulic jack under the transmission and slowly jack the engine up to provide clearance for the oil pan between the engine and subframe. Do this from the safety of the side of the car, as this is a BAD time to be under the car.
#Tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet and the oilpan should come off.
[[file:pan.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 7 - Oil pan removed]]
==Inspection==
#Dump the remaining oil out of the pan.
#Remove the oil pickup and inspect the screen. A little loose material is ok. A mostly clogged screen is not.[[file:oil_pickup.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 8 - Oil pickup removed]]
#You will likely find a fair amount of thick, almost sludgy oil in the bottom and corners of the pain. Carefully clean that out looking for real sludge, gasket material and metal shavings or pieces.[[file:particles.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 9 - Material in sludge]]
#Check out the bottom end. Again, you are looking for heavy varnish and sludge.
[[file:bottom_end.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 10 - Bottom end]]
==Cleaning==
#This is really personal preference. You may use Simple Green or oven cleaner. Oven cleaner is pretty nasty stuff but it gets the pan really clean very quickly. Simple Green is less harsh but you are probably going to get busy with a wire wheel or steel wool and a lot of elbow grease with that option. It is very important to get the mating surface surgically clean.
==Reinstall==
#Apply a bead of anaerobic sealant/gasket maker to the pan, staying about 3/16" away from the inside lip of the pan. Let the pan sit until the gasket material loses its tack, about ten minutes. Clean the mating surface on the bottom end while you are waiting. Again, get the surface perfectly clean.
#Put the pan back on. Have bolts close at hand as the gasket maker will not hold the pan on the bottom end.
#Reinstall all of the bolts on the oil pan.
#Replace the cover on the fly wheel.
#Reattach all subframe bolts, using Loctite on the bolts.
#Rehang the exhaust.
#Reattach all of the O2 sensors.
#Put the downpipe back on the turbo.
#Reattach all of the air shields.
#Install the new oil filter.
#Wait for the sealant to cure, usually about 24 hours.
#Refill the oil (with synth of course!)
#Remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine a few times to get the oil circulating.
#Replace the fuel pump fuse and take her for a test drive.

==Conclusion==
This is a matter of some debate but it appears that the NG turbo cars seem less prone to sludging than the 9-3, 9-5 and Viggens. However, there are NG turbos that have sludged up and ruined the engine. So, for some, this will be a matter of curiousity and confirming that there are no surprises in the oil pan or bottom end. For others, this will lead to the discovery of large amounts of sludge and, likely, some headaches cleaning it all up. The process took me about four hours the first time but I have since helped another Saaber get his done in less than two hours.

NG 900/9-3 Timing Chain Tensioner

2010-08-10T16:29:48Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
The tensioner takes up the slack as the timing chain and plastic chain guides wear. A spring pushes the tensioner against one of the chain guides inside the timing cover. A ratchet allows the tensioner to extend about 1 mm at a time until it reaches its limit. An indication of a loose timing chain is a rattling noise, especially before the engine has warmed up. The noise will be recognizable as chain rattle at idle with the hood open and may be loud enough to hear inside the cabin while driving. In some cases the chain may become so loose it hits the timing cover ("chain slap" or "death rattle").

The tensioner should be removed and inspected at least once after 100K miles, or any time the timing chain starts making noise. The timing chain extension is a measurable indication of the amount of wear on the timing chain and chain guides. Ideally the timing chain and guides should be replaced well before the tensioner reaches the maximum extension.

==Information==
===References===
Haynes Ch. 2A-6.9

Saab EPC 2-0300

===Torque Settings===
* Plug (spring), 16 lb-ft
* Housing, 47 lb-ft

===Tools Used===
* 3/8 Ratchet, 3" extension, 6" extension
* 12 mm socket (spring retaining cap)
* 27 mm socket (tensionner housing)
* 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter for the 27 mm socket

==Inspection==
===Access===
The timing chain tensioner is located on the passenger side of the engine. The airbox, serpentine belt and upper idler pulley were removed to get good access with the tools on hand, and to see better. Removing the tensioner with all other parts in place is possible, but more difficult.
[[file:900_9-3_TC_Tensioner_1.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 1 - Timing Chain Tensioner Location]]

===Close-up===
Tensioner position behind idler pulley. The picture shows the tensioner housing with the off-center spring retaining cap at the end. The pulley was also removed because the pulley bolt did not allow enough clearance for the 27-mm socket used on the tensioner housing. A standard socket may be a better fit than the long socket shown below.
[[file:900_9-3_TC_Tensioner_2.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 2 - Timing Chain Tensioner Location Close-up]]

===Removal===
The 12-mm spring retaining cap must be removed first, otherwise the tensioner will extend fully while it is being removed! The spring and plastic pin come next. The tensioner housing is taken out last. It can take a fair amount of force to break the housing loose, then it can be unscrewed by hand, carefully to keep the tensioner pluger from moving.
[[file:900_9-3_TC_Tensioner_3.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 3 - Timing Chain Tensioner Retaining Cap Removal]]

===Components===
* a - spring retaining cap
* b - cap seal
* c - spring inserted inside tensioner
* d - plastic pin inserted inside the spring
* e - tensioner housing
* f - tensioner plunger
[[file:900_9-3_TC_Tensioner_4.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 4 - Timing Chain Tensioner Components]]

===Extension Measurement===
The tensioner range is from about 8 to 18 mm (9 or 10 clicks). Maximum extension on a normal older engine is probably between 11-15 mm. Mine was extended to the limit, which explained the chain noise from the timing cover.
[[file:900_9-3_TC_Tensioner_5.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 5 - Timing Chain Tensioner Extension Measurement]]

===Wear Marks===
After a little cleaning with a rag and a brush, marks can be seen on the back of the shaft, showing how the tensioner took up the slack as the timing chain stretched. 10-11 marks are visible, so the tensioner started at 7-8 mm and slowly extended to 18 mm over the life of the engine, before it could no longer keep the chain tight.
[[file:900_9-3_TC_Tensioner_6.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 6 - Timing Chain Tensioner Wear Marks]]

===Reassembly===
First the latch on the tensioner housing is pressed down and the plunger is pushed in to reset the tensioner. After that, re-assembly is in reverse order, tensioner housing first, tighten to 47 lb-ft, then the cap and spring with pin inserted. As the cap is screwed in, the spring tension pushes the pluger out to take up slack in the chain.

NG 900/9-3 Valve Cover and Timing Gear

2010-08-10T16:29:24Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
B204 (2.0 liter, 4-cylinder 16-valve) engine at 100k miles after oil changes with conventional oil every 3-5k miles and after treatment with a quick (20-min) engine oil flush. Compression and leak-down tests show moderate engine wear. An oil test (Used Oil Analysis) performed by Blackstone Labs shows high lead and just over 2% fuel in the oil, but no coolant or any other abnormal metals.

* Dry compression test: 142-145 psi
* Leakdown test: 12-18% leakage
* Oil pressure test: 50psi at 2000 rpm

Valve cover removed for inspection.

===Valve Cover===
Inside of valve cover, covered with baked-on oil deposits. For details of valve cover removal and gasket replacement, see Valve Cover.
[[file:900_9-3_Valve_Cover_4.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 1 - Valve Cover]]

===Engine===
Top of the engine after valve cover removal, timing chain and sprockets on the left. Picture shows moderate to heavy tar-like oil deposits.
[[file:900_9-3_Valve_Cover_1.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 2 - Top of Engine]]

===Timing Chain and Sprockets===
Light areas show normal discoloration. Dark areas are layers of accumulated oil deposits. The timing chain was too covered with oil deposits to inspect properly, but there were no obvious signs of wear on the sprockets. For more information on the timing chain, see Timing Chain Tensioner.
[[file:900_9-3_Valve_Cover_2.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 3 - Timing Chain and Sprockets]]

===Timing Chain Gear===
Close up showing a section of timing chain on one sprocket. View shows difference between light areas (varnish), and dark areas covered with oil deposits (sludge).
[[file:900_9-3_Valve_Cover_3.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 4 - Timing Chain Gear]]

===Cleaning===
Valve cover, after a chemical wash. Oil deposits were removed fairly easily in a parts washer, but the engine cannot be cleaned as easily.
[[file:900_9-3_Valve_Cover_5.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 5 - Clean Valve Cover]]

NG 900/9-3 Water Pump Replacement

2010-08-10T16:28:52Z

Mbcullen:

=Removal=

# Open the radiator drain plug and drain out the coolant. Remove the lid of the expansion tank to speed up the draining.
# Remove the air cleaner housing.
# Undo the intake hose and plug the pipe (turbo).
# Remove the bypass hose and remove the pressure pipe between the charge air cooler and the throttle body (turbo).
# Release the tension on the belt tensioner with a 1/2" square extension bar and place a 6 mm drill in the hole.
# Undo the steering servo pump with its console and hang it up on the radiator crossmember.
# Undo the coolant hoses and the pipes on the pump.
# Undo the screw which holds the coolant pipe in the engine's front left-hand corner.
# Remove the hose to the throttle body from the coolant pipe and undo the screws on the thermostat housing. Move the pipes to one side.
# Remove the boost pressure control valve and move it to one side (turbo).
# Remove the coolant pump.
# Remove the sleeve with the O-rings and remove the coolant pump from the pump housing.

=Fitting=

# Clean the sealing surfaces and fit the coolant pump to the pump housing.
# Lubricate the O-rings with an acid-free vaseline and fit the sleeve together with the pump.
# Refit the boost pressure control valve (turbo).
# Refit the coolant hose to the throttle body and refit the screws on the thermostat housing.
# Refit the screw which holds the coolant pipe to the front left-hand corner of the engine.
# Reconnect the coolant hoses and pipes to the coolant pump.
# Refit the steering servo pump with its bracket and put the belt back.
# Relieve the belt tensioner of strain, using a 1/2" square extension bar, and remove the drill.
# Refit the pressure pipe between the charge air cooler and the throttle body and refit the bypass hose (turbo).
# Refit the intake hose (turbo) and refit the air cleaner.
# Make sure that the radiator drain plug is screwed in tight. Fill with coolant and check the system for leaks.

NG 900/9-3 Gear Knob Replacement

2010-08-10T16:26:52Z

Mbcullen:

=Overview=
A common problem with the NG900 is the gearknob becoming loose and 'spinning'.
[[file:Gear_Knob_01.jpg|thumbnail|none|Loose Gear Knob]]

When this happened to me I decided to replace it with a wooden knob to match the new dashboard I had fitted. Although the replacement knob comes with instructions I have detailed my first hand experience of doing this job so that others can fully understand what to expect when they come to undertake this.

==Time==
Approximately 2 hours

==Tools required==
* Screwdriver
* Junior Hacksaw
* Pilers/Molegrips
* White Spirit
* Epoxy Adhesive (Araldite or similar)

=Removal=
1) Put the car in neutral

2) Use a screwdriver to pry off the emblem on top of the gearknob
[[file:Gear_Knob_02.jpg|thumbnail|none|Removing Emblem ]]

3) Using the junior hacksaw. Saw a slit in the knob and remove the outer casing.
<gallery>
file:Gear_Knob_03.jpg|Sawing Slit in Know
file:Gear_Knob_04.jpg|Slit in Knob
file:Gear_Knob_05.jpg|Leather Cover Removed
</gallery>

4) Remove the tape on top of the plastic core to reveal the three snap fasteners for the reverse lock.
[[file:Gear_Knob_06.jpg|thumbnail|none|Reverse Lock Snap Fasteners]]

5) Insert a screwdriver and release the three snap fasteners.

6) Now the hard bit begins. Using the hacksaw cut into the plastic core and tear it off using the pliers and whatever other tools it takes. This is not as straight forward as it may seem. The plastic is tough and you should avoid cutting into the metal tube that the plastic core is fitted to. I cut the outer edges off first and removed the spring before tackling the centre of the plastic core. The pictures should demonstate what I mean.

The first cut
[[file:Gear_Knob_07.jpg|thumbnail|none|Cutting Plastic Core]]

You need to be brutal here
[[file:Gear_Knob_08.jpg|thumbnail|none|Removing Plastic Core]]

Getting there!
<gallery>
file:Gear_Knob_09.jpg|Removing Plastic Core
file:Gear_Knob_10.jpg|Spring Coming Off
</gallery>

Off comes the spring
[[file:Gear_Knob_11.jpg|thumbnail|none|Spring Comes Off]]

Just the core left now.
[[file:Gear_Knob_12.jpg|thumbnail|none|Only the Inner Core Remains]]

Finally it's off!
[[file:Gear_Knob_13.jpg|thumbnail|none|Everything Removed]]

=Replacement=
1) Apply plasters to your cut fingers and vacumn up the mess that has been left!

2) Clean the splines of the shaft with white spirit.

3) Lift the bottom of the gaiter up. This is held in place by four srung plastic clips. As I was replacing the gaiter frame I took a picture of just the frame in place to show the clips and their location.
[[file:Gear_Knob_14.jpg|thumbnail|none|Gaiter Removed]]

4) Refit the spring
[[file:Gear_Knob_15.jpg|thumbnail|none|Gaiter and Spring Reinstalled]]

5) Mix up some epoxy adhesive and apply it to the inside of the replacement knob
[[file:Gear_Knob_16.jpg|thumbnail|none|Epoxy Applied to Replacement Knob]]

6) The knob has a lip inside it. Push the knob onto the shaft, up to the lip, and rotate it to distribute the adhesive evenly.

7) Line up the number "4" on the knob with the "R" on the reverse lock actuator.

8) Lift up the reverse lock actuator so that the three catches fasten into the knob.

9) Lift up the bottom of the gaiter and press the knob down until the heel of the reverse lock actuator is level with the reverse lock stop.
[[file:Gear_Knob_17.jpg|thumbnail|none|Reverse Lock Actuator and Lock Stop]]

10) Ensure the "4" is still in line with "R"
[[file:Gear_Knob_18.jpg|thumbnail|none|4 Aligned With R on Reverse Lock]]

11) Refit the gaiter and leave the adhesive to harden.
[[file:Gear_Knob_19.jpg|thumbnail|none|Gaiter Refitted]]

12) Admire your new gearknob.
[[file:Gear_Knob_20.jpg|thumbnail|none|Finished!]]

NG 900/9-3 Dashboard Insert Removal

2010-08-10T16:25:49Z

Mbcullen:

=Overview=
==Tools needed==
* Torx screwdriver (part of the standard Saab toolkit)
* Two M4 screws
* DIN Radio Removal Tools

==Time Taken==
Approx 1 hour

=Removal=
1) Although it can be done without this, I would recommend removing the glove box and the panel underneath the steering wheel first as it makes the the job a whole lot easier as you can reach up behind the dash.
[[file:Dashboard_Insert_01.jpg|thumbnail|none|Removing Radio Cage]]

2) Using the DIN tools, remove the stereo head unit.

3) Screw the M4 screws into the two holes either side of the SID and withdraw the SID. Unplug the connectors.

4) Gently prise up the tabs that secure the cage for the head unit and withdraw the cage.

5) Remove the 3 fixing screws that are now exposed.
<gallery>
file:Dashboard_Insert_02.jpg|Screw 1
file:Dashboard_Insert_03.jpg|Screw 2
file:Dashboard_Insert_04.jpg|Screw 3
</gallery>

6) Reach up behind the dash and push out the headlight leveling switch (where fitted), both fog light switches, the intrument panel dimmer, the hazard warning light switch, any blanking plates, and the headlight switch. Disconnect the connector blocks and remove the switches from the dashboard. Disconnect the "Fasten Seat Belts" warning light by pulling the bulb holder c/w bulb out of the housing.

Note: all the switches are colour coded with their connector blocks so there is no need to label them.
[[file:Dashboard_Insert_05.jpg|thumbnail|none|]]

7) Remove the 2 fixing screws that are now exposed.
<gallery>
file:Dashboard_Insert_06.jpg|Screw 1
file:Dashboard_Insert_07.jpg|Screw 2
</gallery>

8) Remove the screws on the dash either side of the steering wheel.
<gallery>
file:Dashboard_Insert_08.jpg|Steering Wheel Left
file:Dashboard_Insert_09.jpg|Steering Wheel Right
</gallery>

9) Remove the 2 screws at the top of the instrument cowl.
<gallery>
file:Dashboard_Insert_10.jpg|Instrument Cowl Screw 1
file:Dashboard_Insert_11.jpg|Instrument Cowl Screw 2
</gallery>

10) Remove the 3 screws that fix the steering column cowl and remove the two parts that make up the cowl. I have only pictured the 2 screws that fit the top section of the cowl here as I was in a hurry to get the work finished. Undo the screws and remove the top part (it is held together by tabs so it will offer some resistance) The other screw is in the centre below the steering wheel. Undo and remove the screw that fixes the lower section and remove the lower section of the cowl. It is also held in place by two tabs that fit over the the screw holes that the top section screws onto.
<gallery>
file:Dashboard_Insert_12.jpg|Steering Column Top Screw 1
file:Dashboard_Insert_13.jpg|Steering Column Top Screw 2
</gallery>

11) Extend the steering wheel out to its furthest point.

12) You can now begin to pull the dash insert out. All that is holding it in place are two spring clips either side and the air vents. Be careful with the air vents, they need to come out still attached to the dash. If they don't you have one hell of a fiddly job to try and put all the pieces that make them up back together again although instructions for rebuilding the air vents can be found here if the worst happens. Push the dash insert from behind and the vents should come out of the sockets that they slot into (be brave here...you will need to use some force!)

The clips
<gallery>
file:Dashboard_Insert_14.jpg|Air Vent Clip 1
file:Dashboard_Insert_15.jpg|Air Vent Clip 2
</gallery>

The sockets that the vents come out of
<gallery>
file:Dashboard_Insert_16.jpg|Left Vent Socket
file:Dashboard_Insert_17.jpg|Right Vent Socket
</gallery>

The dash out with the vents in place
<gallery>
file:Dashboard_Insert_18.jpg|Dashboard Insert
file:Dashboard_Insert_19.jpg|Dashboard Insert
</gallery>

=Replacement=
On this occasion, refitting really is the reverse of removal. The application of some washing up liquid to the leading edge of thre air vent assembly can make it much easier to refit.

NG 900/9-3 DIY Rear Seat Cable Fix

2010-08-10T16:25:08Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
The cable release for the back seat (to fold them forward to open to the cargo area) has a tendency to stretch. These cables are no longer available from Saab, so it is necessary to create another fix. A side benefit of this is that it is significantly cheaper than the cable from the dealership.

==Caution==
The rear seat backs and seatbelt are held in place by the crossbar. If your cable is too tight, the crossbar will not lock into place, and bad things will happen in an accident. Always make sure the crossbar is firmly locked in place after putting the seats back up.

==Repair==

===Tools===
* Knife
* Tin snips or strong scissors
* Torx driver

===Parts===
* Nylon washer

===Steps===
1. Remove the rear headrests.
2. Remove the headrest inserts by prying the latch on the right side of the inside of the sleeve while popping it out with a screwdriver in the notch in the front of the sleeve. Fig. 1 shows the notch and latch.
[[file:9009-3Rearseat-1.jpg|thumb|none|Fig. 1 - Headrest insert showing notch and latch]]
3. Remove the two screws holding the handle of the latch in place.
4. Pry up the piece of plastic that covers the right side of the cross bar.
5. Remove cable from lever on right side.
6. Remove the cable from one side of the latch cable carrier.
7. Modify nylon washer so that it doesn't take up too much slack and thread onto cable.
[[file:9009-3Rearseat-2.jpg|thumb|none|Fig. 2 - Modified washer]]
[[file:9009-3Rearseat-3.jpg|thumb|none|Fig. 3 - Washer, cable and cable cover]]
8. Put cable back into carrier.
9. Reattach cable to lever on right side.
10. Put crossbar cover back in place.
11. Put screws back into handle.

NG 900/9-3 AC Short Belt w/o Center Idler Pulley

2010-08-10T16:23:26Z

Mbcullen:

If your A/C Pulley is screeching and you don't need your A/C and you prefer not to be stranded on the side of the road. Using a short belt will circumvent this failing component.

1. Get Short Belt

NAPA 25-060716
Dayco 5060715 / 6PK1815
Goodyear Gatorback Poly V Belt 4060715
Duralast 715K6

2. Take tension off the Tensioner Pulley with 1/2 Square Key Stock or 1/2 Socket Extension. (Don't smash the square or else).

3. Insert 6mm Allen Wrench.

4. Remove Air box Via 3 10mm bolt on the inner fender.

5. Remove Air box hose clamp. (Use a socket before you use a screwdriver and ruin the clamp)

6. Lift the Air Box from the side nearest to the Saab Cockpit.

7. Jack Car up from the Passenger Side.

8. Remove 17mm lugnuts (5x)

9. Remove Wheel and remove the upper access panel bolt (8mm)

10. Then the Lower access panel bolt (10mm)

11. Finally the Bottom of car access panel bolt (8mm)

12. Remove old belt (Cut and Pull if shredded if still intact remove carefully.

13. Spin each pulley and feel each for resistance or grinding. (replace as needed)

14. Clean Timing Cover

15. Bring the new belt up through the bottom.

15. Do the A/C, Crankshaft, Alternator first.

16. Then bring it to the idler pulley, tensioner, and power steering pump.

17. Put tension back on slowly after removing allen wrench.

18. Reassemble in reverse. (lugs are torque'd at 120lb/ft.)

[[File:AC Compressor Routing DiagramMaster.jpg|thumb|none|Compressor Routing Diagram]]

NG 900/9-3 Boost Pressure Control Valve

2010-08-10T16:11:14Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
A clogged or failing BPC valve is a common cause of boost problems between 6 and 13 psi (mid-yellow to beginning of red range on the stock boost gauge), on cars over 100k miles. Symptoms can include overboost and fuel cut, or low boost. The most common symptoms of a clogged BPC valve are jerks during acceleration on wide open throttle.

Boost Pressure Control (BPC) is how the engine ecu controls and limits turbo boost. Same function as APC on older Saabs, but performed directly by the ecu. With no boost pressure control, boost would be regulated by the spring inside the waste gate actuator. It would only reach 0.4 bar, or about 6 psi. This is also called "base" boost. The Boost Pressure Control (BPC) Valve is used to control the level of boost above 0.4 bar. On a stock engine (with no modifications), the maximum boost level is set to 0.8 bar, or between 12 and 13 psi.

[[file:900_9-3_BPC_6.gif|thumbnail|none|Fig. 1 - BPC Location Diagram]] [[file:900_9-3_BPC_1.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 2 - BPC Location Pictures]]

===Overboost and Fuel Cut===
A dirty BPC valve can cause fuel cuts during acceleration. This is when the ecu senses boost pressure above 15 psi, and cuts off fuel to protect the engine. In that case the BPC valve may have to be cleaned. Replacement is no better than cleaning, because the new valve may clog up as fast as the old one.

===Low Boost===
The BPC valve can also cause low boost, if it fails to operate above 0.4 bar due to an electrical failure. In that case it has to be replaced. However, note that reasons for low boost include vacuum line leaks, boost leaks from cracked hoses, and other problems.

===Diagnosis===
To isolate BPC failures from other sources of boost problems, unplug the electrical connector temporarily, or bypass the valve with a single hose from the compressor to the waste gate. (C to W on the turbo. To make the job easier, the C and W hoses can simply be disconnected from the valve, and connected to each other with a two way hose connector. With the BPC valve out of the picture, acceleration should be smooth and normal up to 6 psi (mid-yellow on the stock boost gauge). If not, the problem is somewhere else.

===Electrical Test===
The resistance of the two solenoid coils can be measured to see if a coil has burned out or shorted. To test, unplug the electrical connector and measure across pins 1 and 2, and also across 2 and 3. In both cases, the resistance of a good coil is about 3 ohms. If not, the valve should be replaced.
[[file:900_9-3_BPC_7.gif|thumbnail|none|Fig. 3 - BPC Pins]]

===Hoses===
The valve has three hose connections. Turbo compressor, which is the source of air pressure, waste gate actuator, which is operated by the air pressure, and the air intake which is used to bleed off air above base boost. The valve is normally open from the compressor to the waste gate, and closed to the intake. Above 0.4 bar, the ecu cycles the BPC solenoid to open the valve to the intake and bleed off some of the boost air from the waste gate actuator, which allows the waste gate to open at a higher pressure. The hose connections are marked C, W and R on the valve.

See Fig. 3
* C - from turbo Compressor to the BPC valve
* W - from BPC valve to Waste gate actuator
* R - pressure Reduction port, back to the air intake

==Removal and Cleaning==

===Parts===
* BPC valve, 1994-98 7485576
* Screw 8059420
* Bushing w. nut insert 7973456
* Hose set 4443859

===References===
* Saab EPC 2-2100
* Haynes Ch 4, section 15

===Access===
The BPC valve is located in the front of the engine compartment close to the RH side headlight. The electrical connector and the ends of the three hoses are easily accessible. Mark the hoses before disconnect them from the valve, because they have to be put back in the same order. (See blue mark on hose at left).
[[file:900_9-3_BPC_5.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 4 - BPC]]

===Removal===
The valve can be removed after unplugging the electrical connector, and removing two torx head screws. The screws are held by rubber bushings with metal inserts. If the screws do not come out easily, it may be necessary to remove the headlight and push them out from behind.
[[file:900_9-3_BPC_4.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 5 - BPC and Hoses]]

===Cleaning===
The picture below shows one screw which could not be separated from the bushing insert. If the valve is clogged by oil or dust and causing overboost and fuel cut, it can usually be cleaned by blowing compressed air into the ports, using a can of compressed "dry" air from an office supply store. If the valve is clogged by oil residue, using solvent (isopropyl alcohol, electrical contact cleaner, carb cleaner) may be necessary as a last resort.
[[file:900_9-3_BPC_3.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 6 - BPC]]

NG 900/9-3 Valve Cover Gasket

2010-08-10T16:10:43Z

Mbcullen:

==Overview==
Valve cover leaks are common. Sources include the grommet at the valve cover opening for the PCV system, the valve cover plug at the end of one of cam used for the distributor shaft on non-turbo engines, and the valve cover gasket itself. Most valve cover gaskets lose their elasticity eventually and start to leak. Replacement is fairly straight forward, and a good opportunity to inspect the valve cover for oil deposits which form in many engines by 100k miles.. There are relatively few tools required (T25 and T30 bits, a small ratchet with a bit holder, a new set of gaskets (there is an inner and outer gasket, sold as a kit), and optionally some gasket sealer or gasket "dressing".

==Removal and Replacement==
===Tools===
* 3/8 drive ratchet
* T-30 bit or driver (ignition cassette)
* T-40 bit (valve cover bolts)
* 10-mm socket
* Torque wrench (optional)
* Solvent (cleaner)
* Wire brush (valve cover groove)
* Grease or gasket dressing
* Permatex gasket sealer

===Torque Wrench Settings===
* Ignition cassette, 8 lb-ft
* Valve cover bolts, 11 lb-ft

===Parts===
* Valve Cover Gasket Kit - p/n 8822041

===Access===
====Ignition Module (IDM or DIC)====
The plastic cover over the intake manifold and the Ignition Module have to be removed first. The ignition module (IDM, a.k.a. the DIC) is held in place by T30 screws and an electrical connector.
[[file:900_9-3_VC_1.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 1 - Ignition Module (IDM or DIC)]]

====Other Components====
* Air filter box, 10-mm nuts
* Air intake hose, hose clamps
* PCV Nipple, unplug from valve cover
* PCV pipe screw, T-30 torx
* Oil filler tube bracket, 10-mm hex bolts
[[file:900_9-3_VC_3.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 2 - Other Components]]

===Removal===
====Valve Cover Bolts====
The valve cover is attached by 16 T-40 torx bolts. Eleven bolts on the outside of the valve cover, and five on the inside. The bolts are fairly tight, and have to be removed using a small ratchet with a short extension and a T-40 bit holder. Clearance for the bit holder is tight near the PCV pipe and the oil filler tube.
[[file:900_9-3_VC_4.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 3 - Valve Cover]]

====Valve Cover====
The old gasket usually sticks to both the valve cover and the head. It may take a tap with a rubber mallet to break the seal, and some careful prying with a screwdriver before the valve cover comes loose, and can be lifted off. The top of the engine, timing chain, timing gears etc. can now be inspected.
[[file:900_9-3_VC_5.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 4 - Valves]]

===Assembly===
====Gasket Replacement====
The valve cover groove should be cleaned and dried before inserting a new gasket. It can be coated with a few dabs of tacky grease or gasket sealer/dressing to help hold the gasket in place when the cover is turned over for assembly. The surface at the head where the valve cover will be seated should also be clean and dry before reassembly.
[[file:900_9-3_VC_6.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 6 - Valve Cover Gaskets]]

====Gasket Sealer====
Sometimes a new gasket is not engough to stop the leaks. In that case, small amounts of silicone gasket sealer may have to be used in areas where the cover leaks, like the half-moon seals which close off openings in the block. Otherwise some tacky grease or gasket dressing is sufficient.
[[file:900_9-3_VC_7.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 7 - "Half-moon" seals to be filled with Gasket Sealer]]

====Valve Cover Plug====
If the plug was also leaking, it can be replaced or sealed with Permatex sealer, as shown on the left. For more details on the plug:
[[file:900_9-3_VC_9.jpg|thumbnail|none|Fig. 8 - Valve Cover Plug]]

[[900/9-3 Valve Cover Plug Repair|Valve Cover Plug Repair]]
====Valve Cover====
The valve cover is turned over carefully with the gasket in place and replaced on the engine. Use two bolts to locate the cover in the correct position. Next check the position of the half-moon seals. Finally, tighten valve cover bolts to about 11 lb-ft, in the sequence shown at left.
[[file:900_9-3_VC_8.gif|thumbnail|none|Fig. 9 - Valve Cover Bolt Tightening Sequence]]

====Remaining Parts====
Reassemble in reverse order,

* Oil tube bracket
* PCV pipe
* PCV nipple, clean and insert into the valve cover bushing
* Air box
* Air Intake hose
* Ignition Cassette

NG 900/9-3 Viggen Intercooler

2010-06-17T07:46:20Z

Mbcullen:

=Overview=
This upgrade applies to the NG 900 and 1999 base 9-3. All 2000 and later 9-3s and the 1999 SE (HOT) and Viggen come with the Viggen Intercooler.

This upgrade is highly recommended, it is well worth the effort and cost. There is a noticeable increase in power and spool-up is quicker. On Maptun's website they indicate that there is a 10 HP increase. I have also seen verification of this on Saab Net where someone posted a before and after dyno. There was an increase of 11 horsepower 12 nm of torque.

Using some string I measured the distance from the turbo exit to the throttle body transition casting, the total length was 10'9" with stock setup. With the Viggen Intercooler the length was reduced by 25% to 8'2", plus a reduction of approximately 260 degrees of bends.

Viggen Intercooler Dimensions:
Core: 167.5mm high
Core: 555mm length exposed to air flow
Core: 56.5mm deep.

==Cost and Difficulty==
* Cost: $175 Intercooler, $100 Each Side Hose, $11 Radiator Hose
* Time: 4 hr
* Difficulty: Moderate

==Part Numbers==
* Viggen Intercooler: 4729521
* Passenger's Side Hose: 4729950
* Driver's Side Hose: 4729968 (Not Required - See Bottom)
* Lower Radiator Hose: 4963872

=Installation=
==Summary==
Radiator coolant must be drained to install new lower radiator hose. A new passenger side hose is required but it is possible to use the existing drivers side hose by removing the clamp that holds it to the engine block and sliding the hose down and retightening. The old intercooler is removed and the Viggen Intercooler is installed in the same location with the same bolts. The installations of the Viggen Intercooler does not require the moving or relocation of any other parts or pipes other then the ones mentioned.

==Full Installation Instructions==
# This installation is for installing the Viggen intercooler with the new passenger side hose and reusing the driver's side hose (Number 6 pictured to the right). Begin by jacking up the front and removing the bumper (Bumper instructions written under Tips). The next step is to remove the stock intercooler, start by first removing the pipes from the turbo to intercooler (2,3,4) and then take the intercooler to throttle body pipes (5,6,7) off by remove the clamps (11) that secure them to the throttle body transition casting. There is also a metal clamp on part (6) which secures it to the engine block (not pictured). This clamp needs to be removed from the engine block and the hose because it will not be reused for the reinstallation.
# The stock intercooler is held in place by only two bolts on either side. All pipes are held in place by circular pipe clamps (11,12) that can be loosened with a flat head screwdriver or a hex socket.
# Two pipe clamps (11) need to be saved from this removal to be reused on the new passenger side pipe unless new clamps were purchased. All parts of the driver's side hose with be reinstalled in the same layout as pictured here (5,6,7).
# With the stock intercooler removed the next step is to drain the radiator fluid. The drain is located on the driver's side at the bottom of the radiator. There is a hex wrench screw that must be loosened to allow the fluid to pore out. First remove the cap to the radiator fluid chamber to equalize the pressure during the drain. As soon as the screw is loosened radiator fluid will pore out of the hex hole in the screw. I used a plastic trash bag to catch the fluid because it is not possible to position a bucked directly under the spout. A small hose might work well but there is not much room to maneuver beneath the spout. The trash bag worked rather well without much spilling
# Once the radiator fluid has drained remove the lower radiator hose on the passenger side and install the new one. I suggest using new pipe clamps because they will be easier to tighten in the confined space. Don't refill the radiator fluid yet, it is easier to install the turbo exit pipe when the radiator hose is empty.
# The installation of the Viggen intercooler is next. Reattach the bolts on either side of the Viggen intercooler.
# The exit for the Viggen Intercooler is about 4" lower than stock. This requires an extension to be made so that the hoses will fit together correctly. All parts are leftover when the stock intercooler is removed: Two ring clamps, 4" of aluminum pipe, and the cut off straight section of a rubber elbow.

NG 900/9-3 Viggen Intercooler

2010-06-17T07:44:52Z

Mbcullen: Created page with '=Overview= This upgrade applies to the NG 900 and 1999 base 9-3. All 2000 and later 9-3s and the 1999 SE (HOT) and Viggen come with the Viggen Intercooler. This upgrade is high…'

=Overview=
This upgrade applies to the NG 900 and 1999 base 9-3. All 2000 and later 9-3s and the 1999 SE (HOT) and Viggen come with the Viggen Intercooler.

This upgrade is highly recommended, it is well worth the effort and cost. There is a noticeable increase in power and spool-up is quicker. On Maptun's website they indicate that there is a 10 HP increase. I have also seen verification of this on Saab Net where someone posted a before and after dyno. There was an increase of 11 horsepower 12 nm of torque.

Using some string I measured the distance from the turbo exit to the throttle body transition casting, the total length was 10'9" with stock setup. With the Viggen Intercooler the length was reduced by 25% to 8'2", plus a reduction of approximately 260 degrees of bends.

Viggen Intercooler Dimensions:
Core: 167.5mm high
Core: 555mm length exposed to air flow
Core: 56.5mm deep.

==Cost and Difficulty==
* Cost: $175 Intercooler, $100 Each Side Hose, $11 Radiator Hose
* Time: 4 hr
* Difficulty: Moderate

==Part Numbers==
* Viggen Intercooler: 4729521
* Passenger's Side Hose: 4729950
* Driver's Side Hose: 4729968 (Not Required - See Bottom)
* Lower Radiator Hose: 4963872

=Installation=
==Summary==
Radiator coolant must be drained to install new lower radiator hose. A new passenger side hose is required but it is possible to use the existing drivers side hose by removing the clamp that holds it to the engine block and sliding the hose down and retightening. The old intercooler is removed and the Viggen Intercooler is installed in the same location with the same bolts. The installations of the Viggen Intercooler does not require the moving or relocation of any other parts or pipes other then the ones mentioned.

==Full Installation Instructions==
# This installation is for installing the Viggen intercooler with the new passenger side hose and reusing the driver's side hose (Number 6 pictured to the right). Begin by jacking up the front and removing the bumper (Bumper instructions written under Tips). The next step is to remove the stock intercooler, start by first removing the pipes from the turbo to intercooler (2,3,4) and then take the intercooler to throttle body pipes (5,6,7) off by remove the clamps (11) that secure them to the throttle body transition casting. There is also a metal clamp on part (6) which secures it to the engine block (not pictured). This clamp needs to be removed from the engine block and the hose because it will not be reused for the reinstallation.

# The stock intercooler is held in place by only two bolts on either side. All pipes are held in place by circular pipe clamps (11,12) that can be loosened with a flat head screwdriver or a hex socket.

# Two pipe clamps (11) need to be saved from this removal to be reused on the new passenger side pipe unless new clamps were purchased. All parts of the driver's side hose with be reinstalled in the same layout as pictured here (5,6,7).

# With the stock intercooler removed the next step is to drain the radiator fluid. The drain is located on the driver's side at the bottom of the radiator. There is a hex wrench screw that must be loosened to allow the fluid to pore out. First remove the cap to the radiator fluid chamber to equalize the pressure during the drain. As soon as the screw is loosened radiator fluid will pore out of the hex hole in the screw. I used a plastic trash bag to catch the fluid because it is not possible to position a bucked directly under the spout. A small hose might work well but there is not much room to maneuver beneath the spout. The trash bag worked rather well without much spilling

# Once the radiator fluid has drained remove the lower radiator hose on the passenger side and install the new one. I suggest using new pipe clamps because they will be easier to tighten in the confined space. Don't refill the radiator fluid yet, it is easier to install the turbo exit pipe when the radiator hose is empty.

# The installation of the Viggen intercooler is next. Reattach the bolts on either side of the Viggen intercooler.

# The exit for the Viggen Intercooler is about 4" lower than stock. This requires an extension to be made so that the hoses will fit together correctly. All parts are leftover when the stock intercooler is removed: Two ring clamps, 4" of aluminum pipe, and the cut off straight section of a rubber elbow.

NG 900/9-3 Forge Bypass Valve

2010-06-17T07:37:52Z

Mbcullen: Created page with '=Overview= The stock bypass valve uses a plastic valve which will make a honking sound when boost is increased, it is also insufficient to relieve pressure during shifting. The n…'

=Overview=
The stock bypass valve uses a plastic valve which will make a honking sound when boost is increased, it is also insufficient to relieve pressure during shifting. The new valves claim an increase of 2-3 horsepower, but the purpose of this upgrade it improve boost levels during shifting. The Forge valve will hold high pressures better and will relieve them at a higher rate than the stock valve. This is the valve of choice for most Saab upgraders.

The NG 900 can function with a blow off valve. The 9-3's T7 engine management system does not allow the use of blow off valves.

[[file:9-3_Forge_BPV.jpg‎|thumbnail|none|Forge bypass valve]]

==Cost and Difficulty==
* Cost: $140
* Time: 15 min
* Difficulty: Easy

File:9-3 Forge BPV.jpg

2010-06-17T07:37:20Z

Mbcullen: Forge bypass valve

Forge bypass valve

NG 900/9-3 Sport Exhaust

2010-06-17T07:34:33Z

Mbcullen: Created page with '=Overview= The sport exhaust replaces the resonator muffler with a straight pipe and the large rear muffler with one which is freer flowing. The parts replaced by the sport exhau…'

=Overview=
The sport exhaust replaces the resonator muffler with a straight pipe and the large rear muffler with one which is freer flowing. The parts replaced by the sport exhaust system are numbers 7 and 9. The result is a very pleasant and exciting sound, it purrs at idle and rumbles during accelerations. The gain in performance is very small, most claims are between 7-10 horsepower. While this is the most expensive upgrade in the Stage 1 category, it is a necessary step in improving your Saab. The 9-3 and Viggen sport exhaust will also fit the NG900.
[[file:9-3_Exhaust_2.jpg‎|thumbnail|none|Sport Exhaust]]

==Cost and Difficulty==
* Cost: $380-$500
* Time: 1 hour
* Difficulty: Moderately Easy

[[file:9-3_Exhaust_1.jpg‎|thumbnail|none|Exhaust Components]]

File:SportExhaust.jpg

2010-06-17T07:33:13Z

Mbcullen: uploaded a new version of "File:SportExhaust.jpg"

File:9-3 Exhaust 2.jpg

2010-06-17T07:33:12Z

Mbcullen: Saab Sport Exhaust

Saab Sport Exhaust

File:9-3 Exhaust 1.jpg

2010-06-17T07:33:11Z

Mbcullen: uploaded a new version of "File:9-3 Exhaust 1.jpg": Exhaust Components

Exhaust Components

File:9-3 Exhaust 1.jpg

2010-06-17T07:32:25Z

Mbcullen: Exhaust Components

Exhaust Components

File:9-3 Exhaust 1.jpg

2010-06-17T07:32:25Z

Mbcullen: uploaded a new version of "File:9-3 Exhaust 1.jpg": Saab Sport Exhaust

Exhaust Components

File:SportExhaust.jpg

2010-06-17T07:32:25Z

Mbcullen:

NG 900/9-3 Cone Filter Intake

2010-06-17T07:28:42Z

Mbcullen:

=Overview=
There are two intake options. The DIY 3" intake is inexpensive and provides good results. The performance benefits of the commercial cone filter and heat shield kit are minimal. The primary benefits of this over the DIY intake are looks and intake noise.

Purchased from Genuine Saab, direct replacement of stock air filter and box. Kit includes cone filter, 3” steel elbow, ring clamp and heat shield. It does not include bolts to attach the heat shield to the frame and the bolts on the stock air box are not removable. Simple solution is to buy four nuts and bolts from a hardware store.

Initial impressions were good, performance seemed slightly better. This is partly due to the fact that my old filter was rather dirty. It is much louder than the stock air box, even with the 3” intake and drop in K&N. The heat shield was a tight fit and required a bit of work to get it in, but it fits well.

I am planning to add some padding around the edge of the heat shield to better seal it.

Cone Filter Area = 76 in^2
Stock Filter Area = 51 in^2

==Cost and Difficulty==
* Cost: 92$ + $2 Nuts & Bolts
* Time: 15 minutes
* Difficulty: Easy

[[file:Cold_Air_Intake_1.jpg|thumbnail|none|Cold Air Intake]]
[[file:Cold_Air_Intake_2.jpg|thumbnail|none|Cold Air Intake]]
[[file:Cold_Air_Intake_3.jpg|thumbnail|none|Cold Air Intake]]

NG 900/9-3 Cone Filter Intake

2010-06-17T07:26:19Z

Mbcullen: Created page with '=Overview= You’ve probably noticed there are two different intake options shown on this site. The Stage 1 intake is cheaper and will yield good results. The performance benefit…'

=Overview=
You’ve probably noticed there are two different intake options shown on this site. The Stage 1 intake is cheaper and will yield good results. The performance benefits of the cone filter cold air intake over the Stage 1 intake are minimal. I installed it for the increased turbo noise and for its looks .

Purchased from Genuine Saab, direct replacement of stock air filter and box. Kit includes cone filter, 3” steel elbow, ring clamp and heat shield. It does not include bolts to attach the heat shield to the frame and the bolts on the stock air box are not removable. Simple solution is to buy four nuts and bolts from a hardware store.

Initial impressions were good, performance seemed slightly better. This is partly due to the fact that my old filter was rather dirty. It is much louder than the stock air box, even with the 3” intake and drop in K&N. The heat shield was a tight fit and required a bit of work to get it in, but it fits well.

I am planning to add some padding around the edge of the heat shield to better seal it.

Cone Filter Area = 76 in^2
Stock Filter Area = 51 in^2

==Cost and Difficulty==
* Cost: 92$ + $2 Nuts & Bolts
* Time: 15 minutes
* Difficulty: Easy

[[file:Cold_Air_Intake_1.jpg|thumbnail|none|Cold Air Intake]]
[[file:Cold_Air_Intake_2.jpg|thumbnail|none|Cold Air Intake]]
[[file:Cold_Air_Intake_3.jpg|thumbnail|none|Cold Air Intake]]

File:Cold Air Intake 2.jpg

2010-06-17T07:25:21Z

Mbcullen: Cold Air Intake

Cold Air Intake